Dolphins

It was my umpteenth vacation to Maui and this time I would swim with dolphins. How did I know this? Because I said I would. Never mind that I intended to do this in the open ocean, where they may or may not show up and even if they did, they may or may not choose to swim with me. I am a firm believer in creating my own reality and so had high hopes that this intention would materialize.

Before leaving for my trip, I had searched the internet for the best coastal areas to find the dolphins, without any luck. You could take a chartered boat to one location only, but once on that boat, couldn’t get in the water if they appeared. There was no mention, at least I couldn’t find any, of anyone swimming in the ocean off the coast of Maui, with my mammalian friends. This just can’t be right, I thought. I knew there must be a way.

After arriving in Maui, I thought the best course of action would be to talk to a local. They would know where the pods frequent. The day before my intended rendezvous, I went into one of the many stores that rent snorkels, fins, beach umbrellas and other assorted beach gear, to find my answer.

“Where can I swim with the dolphins?”, I asked the Hawaiian behind the register.

“Well, you can take this chartered boat, and…”

“No, no, I mean where can I swim with the dolphins in the open ocean?”

“You can’t. That can’t be done, not in Maui. You can go to Oahu, or…..”,

I didn’t hear the rest of what he said. I knew I could find dolphins off the coast here somewhere. They WERE out there, I was sure of it, I just had to find them. Why wasn’t he divulging this information? What was the big secret?

“I KNOW they are out there. I’m a good swimmer. I need to swim with them.”

He must have thought I was another fruity tourist on a mission. I guess I was, to a certain extent, as I was a middle age female tourist, visiting Maui by myself, who was determined to swim with the dolphins, come hell or high water. I had done this for years though, come here by myself. And, I was very comfortable in the water, having swum competitively for many many years in my youth.

“O.k., I’ll tell you, but this is a little known secret.”

A secret? Why in the world would this be a secret? I learned later on that many people do not understand or care to learn about the respect and proper way to interact with these creatures, and thus there have been many abuses (whether intended or not) throughout the years. So, it made sense that he didn’t want another stupid human potentially endangering this wonderful species, one of the treasures of the Hawaiian islands.

“You must get up before dawn and drive to the end of the road. Once the pavement ends, you will see lava rock on either side of you…at this point, just keep driving until the road ends. Then you must walk out among the lava rocks and there, in the bay, IF they decide to show up, is the most likely place you’ll have a chance to swim with them. If you don’t get there before dawn though, forget it, as they usually don’t hang around that area for long.”

“Thanks!!!” That was all I needed. If they were there, I was swimming with the dolphins the next morning.

The next morning I lifted my head sleepily from the pillow and glanced at the clock. 8:30!!! Noooooo!!! What happened? When in Maui, I usually get up around 5:30, as I’ve never really gotten used to the time change, it being three hours earlier from my Oregon home. Well, for pete’s sake, damn it all. I missed my opportunity.

Deep in thought while making my morning coffee, I figured I could at least go scope out the place, and try again the following morning. So, off I went to the “secret” location, known only to the locals.

Upon arriving at around 9:30 that morning, I found my parking place next to about 10 other rental cars. Evidently, this wasn’t such a secret location. Oh well, I just wanted to see my dolphins, it didn’t matter to me who else was there. A coast guard in a pick-up was looking through his binoculars so I decided to ask a few questions.

“Have you seen them yet? The dolphins? Where they here this morning?”

“No, not yet this morning. Looks like they are a no-show for the day. Maybe tomorrow.” My heart dropped. Oh well, let’s check out that lava rock and see what I’m in for, in terms of getting in the water.

This was a sharp craggy part of the coastline, and depending on the tidal pull and waves hitting the rocks, you had to be very careful getting into the water. When the tide came in, you could sit on a certain level portion of one of the rocks, a seat, if you will, and push off very quickly right before the tide surged out. In that way, the tide would help you get out into the ocean. A few seconds later the tide would rush you backwards into the sharp lava, surely inflicting several lacerations in the process. I dipped my toes in the water. Cold, wow, that was new. I had always experienced a lovely warmth in the Maui waters. And the wind was picking up. Maybe there was a storm brewing and the dolphins, being the sentient creatures that they are, had decided to swim in other parts of the ocean that morning.

I decided to sit for a spell and pulled out my binoculars. Viewing the horizon, I saw nothing but white caps and storm clouds rolling in, but still, it was beautiful. The coastline was littered with the most beautiful coral you’d ever seen. Golden, pink and white, for the most part, the entire beach was not made up of sand, but of coral. If there was a heaven, I was in it, right then and there. Scanning back to the water, I saw more white caps, no……..wait, what was that,…. I stood up, blinked, and looked harder through my tiny opera glasses that had served as binoculars for years. Those weren’t white caps, those were dolphins. It looked like about 50 of them, from what I could tell. And they were coming into the bay!!! Holy toledo, Batman, they were headed this way!!!

I scrambled to put my fins and snorkel gear on and then looked down at my entry point. The tidal swell was intimidating. I looked up again, and the dolphins were still there. Back down at the surging tide, back up at the dolphins. Fear flooded my body. What if I pushed off at the wrong time and was crushed against the rock? The dolphins were a good 400 yards off the coast. What if by the time I got out there they had decided to leave and there I’d be, 400 yards out, prey to another inhabitant of the ocean, the shark? I was alone after all. I had always heard to swim with a buddy when going out into the ocean. Although there were other tourists with their binoculars looking at the beautiful sight of the dolphins leaping and swimming around, no one else had their swim suit on. With the weather rapidly deteriorating, apparently everyone but me had the good sense to keep their clothes on.

“O.k., Norma, what are you going to do. This is what you came here for. They are here. It’s now or never.”

Judging the tide just so, I thankfully pushed off at the right time to be pulled out away from the rocks. Lordy, it’s cold. (Note to self, get wetsuit for future dolphin swims.) Swimming water polo style with my head out of the water in order to keep track of the pod, I had a bit of fear that perhaps there was a shark (or two or ten) between me and them. Norma, gosh darn it all, go!! No fear, just swim. You can do this.

I noticed they were still swimming into the bay and at about 200 yards out, I stopped swimming and started treading water as they approached me. You see, one doesn’t decide to swim with dolphins. With their superior strength and ease in the water, they decide (or not) to swim with you.

They were heading straight for me! Woo hoo!! As the pod approached, my nagging fear turned to awe. In unison they dove below me. I put my head in the water and started kicking as strongly as I could to keep up with them. I did not want to use my arms as I didn’t want to startle them by splashing about. So, I kept my kicking below the water’s surface as well. Not that they could be startled, but I was doing everything in my power that I could think of to keep them with me. Man, they were strong. And big. Most of the pod were a good six feet in length, with a few smaller ones, and a baby, about three feet long. I noticed that although together in the pod, they seemed to be paired off. Two by two, and the baby with it’s mama.

The pod swam underneath me for what seemed like about ten minutes and then, in unison, they tilted their heads upward, as if looking up at me. One hundred eyes on me at the same time made me catch my breath. It seemed as if they were communicating with each other, and shortly after they tilted their heads, together they swam up and around me.

Jumping in the air, diving below me, swimming around me and all so close, I could have touched them had I reached out. Shortly after they encircled me, one of the pod got especially close and swam with me for the duration of my swim with them. As they swam with me, I tried to anticipate and/or follow their moves, in order to stay with them. I turned as they turned. As they sped up, I tried to stay with them. With what seemed like a gentle flick of their tails, they would at times leave me ten to fifteen feet behind them, then they would slow down again, and I was able to catch up. To have the trust of the mama, swimming right next to me with her baby, was incredible. The baby was doing vertical circles around her, obviously playing, and making the most beautiful sounds.

I heard many different types of sonar that morning, some more high pitched than others, and some sounds in what seemed like response to others. I was certain they were communicating with each other, and I chimed in, in my best imitation of “dolphin”. I felt one with the pod. Up and down the coast we swam, just me and the pod, for a good two hours. I felt so privileged to have this opportunity. After about two hours, I noticed my body was shaking and realized I was chilled to the bone. I was physically wearing out at that point and didn’t want to leave, but truly had no more strength left, so reluctantly turned toward shore.

As I maneuvered the craggy rocks back up onto solid land, I noticed it was pouring rain. Hmmm, I wondered how long it had been raining for, as I certainly didn’t notice it earlier. Wrapping my towel around me and looking out at the dolphins who were now swimming out to sea, one of the tourists approached me.

“That was incredible. You were the only human out there. And for so long!! That was fantastic.”

Yes, yes it was.